Banteay Chmar

VIA SEAArch: Resident archaeologists extraordinaire Alison has the lowdown on Banteay Chmar.

There is a guest house in nearby Thma Puok (which also has some pretty decent restaurants). The rate was $5/night and it was definitely one of the least appealing places I have stayed. Dirty and hot rooms, rats wandering freely, and unfriendly staff.

The good news is that the temple is awesome.

Cambodia: Top 10 destinations

Travel writer John Williams offers 10 must-see “historical” places for visitors to Cambodia.

10. Siem Reap
9. Koh Kong
8. Resort town of Kep
7. Battambang
6. Banlung
5. Phnom Penh
4. Kompong Luong
3. Kampong Cham
2. Bokor National Park
1. Angkor Archeological Park

It’s hard to argue with Angkor Wat at Number 1. But no Kirirom or Sihanoukville? And Kompong Luong? What’s up with that? How about:

10. Kirirom National Park
9. Kep
8. Ream National Park/Sihanoukville
7. Koh Kong/Cardamom Mountains
6. Banlung
5. Bokor National Sokimex Concession
4. Koh Ker
3. Preah Vihear
2. Preah Khan
1.  Angkor Archeological Park

More than Angkor Wat

Cambodia has won The Guardian Readers’ Award for “favourite long-haul country.” While it’s not exactly clear what The Guardian means when they say “long-haul,” presumably it’s a compliment, because John O’Mahony absolutely gushes about Koh Tonsay:

We had planned just a day trip to Koh Tonsay – otherwise known as Rabbit Island – the following morning, but news that there are “bungalows” there for rent prompts us to pack a few things for a longer stay. As the longboat shears through the water, we can first make out only a blob of jungle, then a halo of coconut trees, then a little bow of sand and a row of thatched roofs and finally, we see a little motley band of locals and foreigners lolling on the sand. We’re shown to our room: a bamboo stilt-hut just a few metres from the water.

During the Sihanouk years, Koh Tonsay was used to intern criminals – but it’s now home to six or seven law-abiding families who make their living growing coconuts and fishing. The view in any direction is sublime. The feeling of isolation is intoxicating. The local inhabitants are unnaturally chilled out. The sunsets are transcendental. In the evenings, we feast on fresh boiled crab plucked from the sea just moments before. At night, everyone builds a fire and exchanges stories of their travels over cans of Angkor beer. As a finale, there are the breathtaking underwater performances of the glowing, sparkling plankton.

Most people come for an afternoon and stay a week or two.

It sounds like heaven.

Kep to Phu Quoc overland

Travelfish has the latest on Kep.

More change still, comes courtesy of the border with Vietnam finally officially opening. Yes, the Cambodia/Vietnam border is open and travellers with a valid Vietnamese visa can enter Vietnam at the Prek Chak / Xa Xia crossing a twenty minute motorbike ride from Kep.

More commonly referred to as the Ha Tien crossing, Canby says this point has been open since May. Phil (you remember him, right?) says it’s possible to make it from Kep to Phu Quoc in about 8 hours at a cost of about $33.00. But about that 20 minute motobike ride:

The last section of the dirt road to the border post has turned from OK to horrific over the wet season and is unapproachable by tuk tuk. We swapped onto some motorbikes for the last two kilometres and negotiated with them to take us all the way over the border to the Ha Tien bus station, a few kilometres into Vietnam and just over the bridge from Ha Tien town … The journey from Kep to Ha Tien bus station took roughly two and a half hours.

Mileage may vary.